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Peak Lenin                                                                                Email for detailed information 
Height: 7134 metres
Grade: 3
Duration: 22 days
Season: Mid July-Early September

Of the four peaks in the former Soviet Union which are over 7000m high three lie in the Pamir Highlands of Central Asia. The same Pamir itself refers to the great valleys that divide the various mountain chains. Peak Lenin, at 7134m, is the third highest; the second highest, Pik Pobeda, lies nearby in Tien Shan. Peak Lenin is located in the northernmost of the High Pamir mountain chains - the Zaalayski Range. From the summit looking south-west the other major ranges dominate the skyline. On a clear day it is possible to see the summit of Peak Communism 80 miles away, at 7495m. the highest summit in the Pamir, and occasionally the Hindu Kush mountains some 140 miles away. Looking north one sees the great Kyzylsu (Red River) Valley, to the east the Chinese Pamir. Peak Lenin is a popular mountain, it is often considered to be the easiest 7000m. summit in the world for climbers since it is relatively accessible and technically straight forward.  We will tackle Pik Lenin by the popular and safe Achik Tash route.

GRADE AND QUALIFICATIONS

There are no real technical difficulties involved in this programme. Apart from altitude and physical requirements this route is technically similar to the ascent of Mt Elbrus or Mont Blanc. It is also necessary on Peak Lenin to adopt a Himalayan-style and to camp in snow, and be prepared for poor weather. On Peak Lenin acclimatisation trips are used for takingup supplies for the main ascent. Normally there is no ice at all, walkingis on firm snow or soft, deep snow. The equipment mentioned later is required for simple security when crossing crevasses or for crevasse rescue.

Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. Efficient use of ice axe and crampons is essential as is experience in winter mountaineeringas encountered on a Scottish grade II winter climb or an ascent of Mt Elbrus, Mont Blanc or another similar Alpine mountain. Our expedition team leaders will carry in much of the communal equipment to our base camp; group members will have to carry all their own personal equipment.

There are no porters as such. On the ascent, members will also have to carry their personal equipment and a share of food for all those climbing. All communal equipment will again be carried by the expedition team; depending on the group member/tent ratio, members may have to carry part of a tent. They will be expected to help as much as possible with camp chores especially in pitching tents at each stage. The ascent is very much a team effort.

EXPEDITION TEAM

There will be a team of our staff supporting our group. The team leader will be a Russian "Master of Sport" very familiar with the mountain. There will be an assistant guide with 7000m experience. One of the assistant guides will act as a cook, there will also be a base camp cook and a base camp doctor who will be fully equipped. Apart from our team outlined here there is also a permanent rescue team available near to our base camp and we will have constant radio contact with the rescue centre and helicopter base.

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATION

At all stages of the expedition food will be prepared by our team, food will be mainly brought in from St. Petersburg. Food at high altitudes, in order to be palatable, is a very important item and most people find dehydrated foods and warm-in-a-pouch foods, even of the best quality, rather unappetising. We will be using slightly heavier but more edible foods, some canned, for our main meals. Snacks should be supplemented with some items purchased by you. All participants are strongly recommended to make up their own personal goody-pack of snacks that they particularly enjoy. This should not weigh more than about 2kg. Accommodation will being a small, private and very pleasant guest house in Osh. At base camp there will be a mess tent and group members will sleep in comfortable two-person double skin tents. On the ascent good quality, high altitude 2 or 3 man tents will be used.

EQUIPMENT, WEATHER AND CLOTHES

Mountain weather is variable; on Peak Lenin bad weather and snow conditions are possible. Temperatures at base camp may drop to - 3 C; on the ascent it may drop to -15 C. Good equipment for cold conditions and snow and ice climbing is essential, i.e. double boots, duvet jacket, mitts, harness,ice axe and ski poles, 4 season sleeping bag, a big rucksack and soft sports-type bag. A full kit list will be given with the predeparture information.

HEALTH MATTERS AND DOCUMENTS

Climbing to 7000m requires good physical fitness and health it is advisable to consult your doctor prior to booking to discuss this. Diamox may be taken as an aid on the climb - please consult your own doctor. Although hygiene is good the change in diet may cause some stomach problems. No special inoculations are required but we recommend that your tetanus inoculations are up to date and that you also consult your doctor for other cover. An emergency medical kit accompanies the trek and our staff include qualified medical personnel. We nevertheless recommend that you carry your own personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents as well as more general health information is included in your pre-departure information.

A Kirgizstan visa is required, and will be applied for on a group basis. Full details of the procedures involved will be included in the pre-departure information.

OUTLINE ITINERARY

The following itinerary is intended as a working guide only and it is subject to variation as a result of local conditions, weather and governmental restrictions. We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trip at any time if necessary. Timetables are altered occasionally and it maybe necessary to vary our itinerary to adapt to these changes.

Day 1 Meet in Tashkent.
Day 2 Arrive in Tashkent and transfer to a flight to Andijan (1 hour). Drive to Osh in Kirgyzstan (1 hour).
Day 3 Drive to the Achik Tash base camp on a grassy meadow amongst alpine flowers at circa 3800m (9 hour drive).
Day 4 Preparation of equipment and acquaintance with terrain.
Day 5-20 The programme for these days is flexible and with one guide per 2 or 3 group members we can operate as smaller
groups if necessary. Food and equipment will gradually be ferried higher up the mountain and three camps will be established at
circa 4500m, 5200m and 6100m. The process of ferrying will serve several purposes: acclimatisation, fitness and the building up of
adequate supplies for the final push.
Day 21 Drive back to Osh.
Day 22 Drive to Andijan, Fly back to Tashkent. Departure.

WHAT'S INCLUDED: All internal flights. All transport, food and accommodation. Tents, mountain guides, cook and doctor.

NOT INCLUDED: Passport, insurance and visas. Visa support and climbing permits.